Day 79 - Iran 🇮🇷

April 11, 2021

Today we visit Iran. Described as some as the Middle East’s best-kept secret.

I suspect Iran is a country I won’t be visiting anytime soon. This is a shame though, it looks genuinely fascinating. I’ve heard that Iranian people are on the whole warm, welcoming and incredibly gracious hosts.

Today I’m going to share a few links.

Back in 1971 when Iran was known as Persia and before the 1979 Islamic revolution, the Shah of Persia threw the world’s most expensive party to celebrate 2,500 years of the Persian Empire. This party was utterly mammoth in scale. An entire city of custom, luxury tents was constructed and world leaders royalty from almost every country were invited.

Link - The most expensive party ever

My friends Charli and Oli visited Iran as part of a motorbike journey from the UK to Australia. Of all of the places they visited, they always spoke about Iran incredibly fondly. Here are their reflections on what it’s like to visit Iran as a westerner.

Link - Reflections on Iran

I’ve also heard that Iranian cuisine is particularly delicious and best enjoyed inside peoples’ homes. So, to round out today’s post here’s a quick a quick primer on Persian food.

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Day 78 - Indonesia 🇮🇩

April 10, 2021

Today we’re heading to Indonesia, the world’s largest island Indonesia and fourth-largest by population.

What’s Indonesia’s top tourist attraction?

I’m not sure this is a specific attraction, but the island of Bali is undoubtedly Indonesia’s tourist hotspot. In 2019 Bali saw 6.3 million foreign tourists arriving. There are probably better Indonesian islands to visit if you’re craving a deserted beach.

What was the last war or conflict Indonesia took part in?

This would be the Papua conflict, or “Indonesia's war that won't go away”. The Papua conflict has been simmering away since 1962 with the Free Papua Movement leading an insurgency movement calling for the independence of Papua and West Papua provinces.

A Bizarre fact about Indonesia

Well, actually this is sort of an anti-fact. Everyone can agree that Indonesia consists of many islands, but there is no definite number. My copy of Lonely Planet states 18,000, however, the Indonesian government was only able to count 13,466 islands during a three-year survey. The CIA estimates Indonesia has 17,508 islands.

Was Indonesia a former colony?

Yes, Indonesia was a Dutch colony known as the Dutch East Indies until 1949 when the Netherlands reluctantly relinquished control following a bitter armed struggle.

What are Indonesia’s main exports?

Indonesia’s biggest exports are coal, palm oil and petroleum gases. Indonesia is going to really have to find a way to diversify.

What’s Indonesia’s National dish?

Indonesia’s national dish is nasi goreng. Nasi goreng is a fried rice dish cooked with meat and vegetables and flavoured with a sweet, thick soy sauce called kecap (pronounced ketchup). Obviously satay is also incredibly popular and is arguably better known outside Indonesia than nasi goreng. Perfect for washing down with a Bintang.

Satay being cooked in Bandung City, West Java, Indonesia

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The Taj Mahal. I was so happy with this photo back in 2009

Day 77 - India 🇮🇳

April 9, 2021

Visiting India for the first time was a genuinely transcendent experience. It widened my perspectives on travel and the world we live in. India is easily the most chaotic, and intense (on all the senses) country I’ve been to. It’s also possibly taught me more than any other country how to deal with unexpected situations when travelling.

I first visited India back in 2009 with my then-boyfriend, Matt. We did not have a gentle introduction to India. Within an hour of being in India, we were effectively being kidnapped in the back of a small car weaving through Delhi’s chaotic traffic in monsoon rain.

Matt, Fiona, Rob and I exploring the mountains near Manali in Himachal Pradesh

We fell for the classic Delhi Airport prepaid taxi scam. We were shown a number of apparent terrorist attack sights and some roadblocks before being told we would have to go to another hotel.

What followed was a night in a random, expensive hotel followed by several tuk tuk rides to our booked hotel which somehow inexplicably always ended up at travel agencies and fake calls to our booked hotel to confirm it was cancelled.

We eventually got to our hotel. It was open.

This was the first lesson India taught me. This experience taught me how to properly assert myself when travelling. It gave me a sixth sense about who to trust and who to not trust when travelling.

Thinking about it, India has taught me many invaluable lessons.

India taught me how to survive for 24 hours on a train with food poisoning. It’s amazing how quickly you get used to squatting toilets and a view of the railway tracks whizzing past.

India also taught me how warm and wonderful people can be when you trust them. We stayed with a retired Indian Army colonel and his wife in Jaipur. They cared for me through this horrible bought of food poisoning by making special turmeric-infused dishes to help me feel better.

India taught my about how unfair an unequal our world is. It taught me how incredibly privileged and lucky I was to grow up in a developed country with no worries about where my next meal was coming from, or whether I could afford to go to school.

India taught me how to properly enjoy genuinely spicy food. It taught me to truly appreciate vegetarian food, and also that it can easily be tastier than the meat alternative. The food in India hit taste levels I could never have dreamt of.

Enjoying a tuk tuk ride with Charli and Oli in Kochi, Kerala

I travelled back to India in 2016 for a close friend’s wedding. India was just as vibrant, chaotic and wonderful. This time I was blown away at how generous and kind people can be. Shankar and his family who were hosting the wedding welcomed us into their lives and laid on the most generous and warm reception. They even provided my outfit for the wedding.

It’s impossible to sum up India in a way that does it justice. All I can say is that if you get the opportunity to travel to India, don’t pass it up.

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An obligatory photo of Icelandic ponies near Höfn

Day 76 - Iceland 🇮🇸

April 8, 2021

Today we visit Iceland, the surprisingly large windswept island in the middle of the North Atlantic. Today is also a great opportunity to get a little closer to that mythical post I was always planning to write about my 2018 trip to Iceland.

So here goes my attempt to write up some tips for visiting Iceland in under an hour…

Practical advice for visiting Iceland

The weather in Iceland

Whatever time of year you’re visiting Iceland. Prepare for it to be grey, soaking wet and windy. This is part of the charm. If it’s sunny (or not raining) then this is a bonus.

Where to stay

Some countries mostly have hotels, some countries, B&Bs, some countries rental apartments. Iceland favours the guesthouse. Expect them to be expensive, and not so luxurious, but everything you need for a nights rest.

What car to rent in Iceland?

You’ll need a car because of course, you are going to explore Iceland beyond Reykavik. Everyone recommends you need some kind of rugged SUV to drive around Iceland. This is simply not true though, well, unless you’re planning to traverse the unpaved interior roads. I rented the smallest, cheapest car possible (Iceland is expensive!) The car came with studded winter tyres and it was completely fine (if a little underpowered).

What to see and do in Iceland

Here are a few of the places I visited in Iceland. Some are well-known Iceland landmarks, others less so.

Secret Lagoon Hot Spring

If you fancy relaxing in a thermal lagoon, I recommend the Secret lagoon Hot Spring, (or Gamla Laugin in Icelandic). This place is amazing - it’s far less well known than the Blue Lagoon, but is a lot smaller and quieter. It’s also Iceland’s oldest geothermal swimming pool, dating back to 1891. If relaxing in the soothing warm waters makes you hungry, the Secret lagoon very close to Iceland’s only mushroom farm which has an excellent mushroom cafe. It’s amazing how many ways you can cook mushrooms.

Strokkur

A trip to Iceland wouldn’t be complete without visiting a few geysers. The geyser most people (and tour buses) gravitate towards is Strokkur. If you go with the expectation that it will be touristy, it’s incredible and definitely worthy of a detour. I’d actually go as far as saying the crowds of people actually add to the theatre of seeing the ground explode with towers of steaming water.

Solheimasandur plane wreck

If you’re up for a long walk through a desolate landscape, then walking to the Solheimasandur plane wreck is pretty amazing. The Solheimasandur plane wreck is a decaying US Navy DC3 that crash-landed in 1973, and since then has sat in its current desolate surroundings. I visited during a torrential downpour, but the walk and wreck site was still beautiful. I probably sound a little cranky, but it is possibly a bit too much of an Instagram location for my taste. I just wanted to chill and take in the desolate, weird place. Go early before the crowds and hope for a rainy day.

Skaftafell and the Vatnajökull National Park

I definitely recommend taking a whole day at least at the Vatnajökull National Park. There are many of incredible hikes around Skaftafell and the Vatnajökull National Park and the trails are all well maintained. The views of the plains and glaciers are spectacular. I recommend taking water, some snacks or a packed lunch.

Svínafellsjökull Glacier

Svínafellsjökull is one of the glaciers I most enjoyed visiting. It’s possible to walk right up to the foot of the glacier (provided you’re extremely careful). It’s easy to get to and won’t disappoint if you enjoy dramatic scenery. When I went Svínafellsjökull was also very deserted.

The most dramatic glacier I visited in Iceland though must be the Sólheimajökull Glacier just outside of Vik.

Hoffell Hot tubs

If you make it as far as Höfn, I really enjoyed relaxing at the Hoffell Hot Tubs. They’re inexpensive, the setting is spectacular and they’re a really lovely place to unwind after a day of hiking. Oh, and the area around Höfn is lovely too - it’s much quieter than other parts of Iceland and has lots of hiking options.

The glacial plains just outside of Skaftafell

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A bloke on a horse, Buda Castle, Budapest, Hungary

Day 75 - Hungary 🇭🇺

April 7, 2021

Hungary is known, most importantly, for the Rubik’s cube, but also its delicious paprika and more recently its surge towards rightwing populism led by Victor Orbán.

One of the other things Hungary is most known for is its thermal baths. Hungary really is the land of thermal spas with over 1300 and over 123 in Budapest alone.

I’ve been lucky enough to visit multiple thermal baths on the two occasions I’ve been to Budapest.

The first was back in 2008 as part of my European Interrailing adventure. Budapest was one of the places I most wanted to visit as back then it still had this ex-Soviet Eastern European allure. Or at least to my 21-year-old self it did.

Enjoying €1 beers that we could barely afford

My first visit to Budapest was marked with a day visit to Sziget Festival after an almost complete night’s lack of sleep owing to a sleeper train from Prague where my friend had her flip-phone stolen. Miraculously they opted to leave her euros and passport, but just swipe the budget mobile.

Sziget was immense, sweaty and in all honesty mind-blowing. We spent all day in the mosh and saw The Killers, Pete Doherty and the Hungarian band Tankcsapda.

My more recent visit to Budapest was back in 2017. In fact, it was our last weekend break before moving to Denmark. I remember walking along the street with my hands half-freezing looking at jobs in Copenhagen on my phone.

We did manage to squeeze in a few visits to some of Budapest’s impressive thermal baths though. Gellert would be my pick.

Potato rosti from a street vendor in Budapest

We also checked out some of Budapest’s ruin bars such as Fogasház and Szimpla Kert. Unlike our first visit though, we could afford to eat in restaurants. My personal favourite was Belvárosi Disznótoros which serves excellent (and inexpensive) Hungarian barbecue. I would definitely return.

On that note, I could really go for a cold Kozel.

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Catedral San Pedro Apóstol, San Pedro Sula, Honduras

Day 74 - Honduras 🇭🇳

April 6, 2021

Today we head to Honduras, the second-largest country in Central America bordering El Salvador and Guatemala to the West and Nicaragua to the South East.

Honduras is frequently referred to as the murder capital of the world, a title which is well deserved when you consider that according to the UN, Honduras has one of the highest murder rates on the planet.

It’s not just violent crime that Honduras struggles with. A long history of military rule, human rights abuses, world-beating corruption and high levels of poverty, violence have caused significant outflows of migrants and asylum-seekers. This was arguably what Donald Trump capitalised on with his caravan “invasion” claims.

As part of researching this post, I stumbled upon a Guardian article from 2018 following the plight of the most vulnerable people travelling north from Honduras. If you’re interested in reading beyond the headlines, it’s well worth a read - This is what Trump’s caravan 'invasion' really looks like.

On a lighter note, those that remain in Honduras, get to live in a place where it rains fish. Yes, actual fish. Falling from the sky.

While I’m not sure whether raining fish counts as a positive story, I’ll leave you with one last definitively good piece of news to come out of Honduras.

Researchers exploring a remote rainforest area of Honduras recently uncovered a pristine, thriving ecosystem with an unexpected wealth of biodiversity. The find included 198 species of birds, 94 species of butterflies and 56 species of amphibians and reptiles. They also found many large mammals including pumas, ocelots, and jaguars. Steps are now being taken to set up a foundation to research, protect and manage the unique environment.

Right, I think it’s time for a cold Salva Vida.

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Day 73 - Haiti 🇭🇹

April 5, 2021

Tonight we visit Haiti. I’m calling in a favour. Tonight’s post from Haiti is in the form of a documentary.

There’s a lot I could say about Haiti. For example, Haiti is the most mountainous country in the Caribbean and boasts the largest fortress in the Western Hemisphere. The imposing Citadelle Laferrière sits atop the Bonnet à l'Evêque mountain and was intended to thwart potential French incursions after Haiti’s newfound independence.

This isn’t what first comes to mind when thinking about Haiti though. The elephant in the room is how incredibly unlucky Haiti has been. It’s been plagued by more natural disasters than pretty much any other nation on the planet.

Haiti has also been unfortunate to have an ineffective and corrupt government, consistently ranking as one of the most corrupt nations according to multiple indexes.

For today’s post, I think it’s interesting to examine why Haiti is as it is today compared to the Dominican Republic which is thriving. While I could do this, I think Vox do a much better job with their fantastic documentary exploring how the Dominican Republic and Haiti have had such different fortunes despite sharing the island of Hispaniola.

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Looking down from the top of the Kaieteur Falls, Guyana — Looking down from the top of the Kaieteur Falls, Guyana

Day 72 - Guyana 🇬🇾

April 4, 2021

Today we head to Guyana, a South American country bordering Venezuela, Suriname and Brazil.

Guyana is a largely undeveloped country. An example of this is the fact that there are no roads leading to neighbouring Venezuela. If you want to drive to Venezuela you have to travel through Brazil. This is partially down to a dispute between the two countries, but also because infrastructure is undeveloped everywhere in Guyana. There are no paved roads link its major towns to the capital Georgetown.

Guyana is the only South American Nation where English is the official language, although the majority of people speak Guyanese Creole.

Guyana is home to the world's largest single-drop waterfall by volume. At 226 metres in height, the Kaieteur Falls are spectacular.

Georgetown is home to one of the world’s tallest wooden churches.

Almost 80 percent of Guyana is covered in pristine, untouched rainforest. In fact, the Iwokrama Forest is so untouched that an estimated 30% of the flora and fauna here is still unidentified.

Back in 2009, Norway signed a landmark deal with Guyana with the aim of protecting Guyana’s rich rainforests. Guyana would receive millions of dollars in exchange for the maintenance of vast tracts of virgin rainforest. While this deal didn’t go as smoothly as planned (Guyana had no real experience in large infrastructure projects, so struggled to write proposals for how the funds would be spent, and unfortunately deforestation rates increased).

One other particularly weird chapter of Guyana’s history occurred in the 1970s when a US-based apocalyptic cult named The Peoples Temple built a town dubbed Jonestown in the Guyanese jungle and coerced his followers to murder journalists and a US congressman, before committing mass suicide by drinking cyanide-laced fruit punch. Over 900 people died in this harrowing incident.

Anyway, on to a more upbeat subject, I recently discovered that the UN provides high quality, free-to-use maps of almost every country in the world. You know the kind of maps you used to find in those beautiful hardback atlases that only seemed to exist in school libraries. Anyway, they have almost every country in the world, apparently, except for Guyana.

This led to a bit of a scenic tour of the internet where I ended up discovering some particularly beautiful old maps of Guyana. So, if you also appreciate a retro map, enjoy!

A 1959 map of British Guiana by the Directorate of Overseas Surveys courtesy of the Perry-Castañeda Library Map Collection — A 1959 map of British Guiana by the Directorate of Overseas Surveys courtesy of the Perry-Castañeda Library
Map Collection

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Police officer patrolling a parade in Guinea-Bissau

Day 71 - Guinea-Bissau 🇬🇼

April 3, 2021

Today we’re staying in North Africa and crossing the border from Guinea to Guinea-Bissau. Guinea-Bissau is a relatively unknown country that borders Guinea to the south and Senegal to the north.

Guinea-Bissau is a tiny country, only a touch larger than Belgium. Before its independence in 1973 Guinea-Bissau was known as Portuguese Guinea, but Bissau, the name of the country’s capital city was added to the country's name to prevent confusion with Guinea, the former French colony.

Despite Portuguese being the official language of Guinea-Bissau, only about 3% of the population speaks it as their first language, the majority of Bissau-Guineans prefer to speak Guinea-Bissau Creole.

Guinea-Bissau is one of the poorest countries in the world. The country also languishes towards the bottom of the Human Development Index and many Bissau-Guineans still struggle with food security. This is largely down to decades of poor governance and high levels of corruption. The political turmoil has been so unrelenting that analysts do not even agree on exactly how many coups there have been throughout Guinea-Bissau’s 47 years of independence.

More recently Guinea-Bissau has fallen into the role of Africa’s “narco-state”. Drugs are smuggled from South America to Guinea-Bissau and then re-routed to Europe.

Last year, for one day Guinea-Bissau had two presidents because of a stand-off before one of the presidents eventually stepped down.

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Day 70 - Guinea 🇬🇳

April 2, 2021

Today we head to Guinea, not to be confused with Equitorial Guinea or Guinea-Bissau. Guinea is a beautiful West African country.

The term Guinea refers to the Gulf of Guinea, a huge area of the Atlantic stretching from Gabon to Liberia. Weirdly Liberia is South of Guinea, so technically speaking the country of Guinea is outside of the Gulf of Guinea.

Unsurprisingly for a West African state, Guinea was at one time a French colony, gaining independence in 1958. Also unsurprisingly for an African state, Guinea has rich deposits of gold and diamonds.

The first time I think I ever heard of Guinea was because of its mesmerising music. In fact, I’m a huge fan of Guinean music.

So for today’s post, I’m going to share some beautiful music by Kélétigui et ses Tambourinis. Kélétigui et ses Tambourinis was an orchestra founded by the newly independent Guinean government in 1959. They were effectively an organ of the Guinean government and used for political means, but their sounds transport you to a completely different world.

If you do anything after reading this post - listen to Kadia Blues. It’s utterly spellbinding.

If you liked Kadia Blues, check out Bembeya Jazz National.

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