Day 115 - Moldova 🇲🇩

May 17, 2021

Moldova is notable for being a European country that almost no one knows anything about. Obviously I’m joking, but I’m also kind of not joking. The claim that no one knows about Moldova is backed up by cold hard data (and by challenging anyone to point to it on an unmarked map). Moldova is Europe’s third-least visited nation. Monaco even receives almost three times more visitors annually than Moldova, and it’s only two square kilometres in size.

If Moldova isn’t well known, then the breakaway region of Transnistria is off the unknown-scale. I’d never heard of Transnistria before today, but it’s a small breakaway state that is internationally recognised as part of Moldova. It was formed in 1992 after a brief civil war and still uses Soviet symbols like the hammer and sickle to this day.

Today’s map is more useful than normal. Unless you’re trying to find Transnistria.

Wine is Moldova’s largest export and apparently Moldova is home to the world’s largest wine cellar. Mileștii Mici’s wine cellar is a converted limestone mine and it stretches for a staggering 240 km and holds around two million bottles of wine. You won’t be surprised to learn then that Moldovan’s consume more alcohol per capita than any other nation in the world except for Belarus.

Weird, I can still remember writing the Belarus post, and I was suitably hungover.

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Looking across to Valletta, the capital of Malta

Day 109 - Malta 🇲🇹

May 11, 2021

I visited Malta in 2019. It was the perfect starting point for our trip crossing the Southern Mediterranean, across Southern Italy to Albania. All the best holidays involve a decent journey.

Malta was hot, welcoming, a little chaotic and genuinely lovely. We swam in the surprisingly choppy blue waters, accidentally stumbled upon Malta Pride, and found a truly exceptional cocktail bar. There’s no better start to a holiday.

Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.

We were in Malta at the same time as our friend Andrea

Malta is also unexpectedly (for me at least) a little bit British. There’s an M&S, Costa Coffee, red postboxes and cars drive on the left. Curiously Malta almost ended up becoming part of the UK. In 1956 Malta was a British colony. That same year Malta held a referendum and voted overwhelmingly in a referendum to become a full part of the UK. The proposals would have seen Malta having three parliamentary seats in Westminster. Negotiations between the Maltese government and the UK government proved problematic, and Malta eventually ended becoming independent in 1964.

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Day 103 - Luxembourg 🇱🇺

May 5, 2021

I visited Luxembourg in early 2019 as part of an extremely long detour on the way back from the UK to Denmark after Christmas. Visiting Luxembourg was definitely worth the extra kilometres.

We visited Luxembourg City, which must be one of Europe’s most dramatic capital cities and is split between two distinct, almost unconnected levels. Complete with a fort, palaces and meandering river within a gorge, Luxembourg City has a very old-world Europe feel.

This traditional impression of Luxembourg City is starkly punctuated by visiting the new glistening glass district of Kirchberg. Kirchberg houses the European Parliament, European Investment Bank and European Court of Justice. On a personal note, nothing gave me more pleasure than visiting these wonderful institutions while my own countries xenophobic premier was doing everything she could to strip me of my European citizenship. Yep, I’m still not over Brexit.

Anyway, back to Luxembourg. Luxembourg also has excellent thermal baths, although as we learned you can’t buy swimming shorts anywhere in Luxembourg City in early January.

One thing we did get to try though was Luxembourg’s excellent Crémant de Luxembourg - a delicious sparkling wine. I think it may be my absolute favourite sparkling wine. What’s even better is you can go out and drink whatever you like because all of the public transport in Luxembourg City is absolutely free. If you don’t want to get too drunk though, I’d recommend trying the steak tartare. It’s truly excellent.

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Trakai, Lithuania. Yes it’s true, Lithuania has the highest number of hot air balloons per capita

Day 102 - Lithuania 🇱🇹

May 4, 2021

Today we head back to the Baltics, this time to the final of the three Baltic nations, Lithuania. I am very short on time, so here are five things I find interesting about Lithuania:

Lithuania has an abandoned Soviet nuclear power plant very similar to Chernobyl. In fact, the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant is so similar to Chernobyl, the EU required it to be decommissioned before Lithuania was allowed to join the EU. Ignalina was also used as a filming location for the recent HBO drama series Chernobyl.
Apparently Lithuania has the highest number of hot air balloons per capita. It turns out there is actually a time and a place to use stock photography with balloons floating on the horizon.
Like Denmark, Lithuania also has a self-proclaimed, unrecognised. Formed in 1997, the Republic of Užupis has a population of 7,000 and is located within Vilnius.
Lithuania has a bizarre, creepy looking “Hill of Crosses”. It’s a hill, covered in over 100,000 crosses dating back to medieval times. It’s seen as a symbol of Lithuanian independence. Oh, and did I mention it’s incredibly creepy in appearance?
Lithuania claims to be the geographic centre of Europe and has even built a monument to commemorate this. Sadly for Lithuania, this isn’t a widely agreed-upon fact and the Estonian island of Saaremaa made a claim to be the geographic centre of Europe last week. It looks like tensions are heating up in the Baltics.

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Day 101 - Liechtenstein 🇱🇮

May 3, 2021

Today’s destination is Liechtenstein. Liechtenstein is one of only two double landlocked countries (the other being Uzbekistan) and is also the smallest country we have covered so far on this journey.

Liechtenstein is also the first (and only) country in the world you can rent for a holiday. If only Liechtenstein had been as progressive with gender equality - women were not permitted to vote until 1986. The law only changed due to a referendum which narrowly passed with a result of 51%. Naturally, only men could vote in the referendum. I wonder how many of these men are still alive today. I really hope they’ve changed their views since...

I visited Liechtenstein back in 2017 when we were travelling through Switzerland on our way to Italy. We spent the night in a tiny Swiss village called Jenins and then drove through Liechtenstein, briefly stopping in Vaduz. I think it’s also the shortest amount of time I’ve ever spent in a country.

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Riga, Latvia. Where is everyone? Read below for the answer…

Day 96 - Latvia 🇱🇻

April 28, 2021

Tonight, after what seems like an age, we’re back in Europe, and in the Baltic nation of Latvia. We’ve already visited neighbouring Estonia, but I don’t know much at all about Latvia.

Latvia is known for its dune-lined shores, remote Forrests and Riga, the largest city in the Baltics. The Latvian flag is also the third oldest in the world. However, I think Latvia’s demographics tell a much more fascinating story.

Latvia is smaller than I realised with a population of just under two million. Unlike most other countries in the world, Latvia’s population is shrinking rapidly. In 1990 when Latvia broke free of the Soviet Union, Latvia had a population of almost 2.7 million people. Latvia’s population has shrunk every single year since 1990 and in 2021 stands at 1.8 million.

A large driver of this population decline is economic migration to other European nations. There is however one group of residents in Latvia who are a lot less likely to be able to make a life in a new country. That is Latvia’s “non-citizens”.

Roughly 209,000 people who live in Latvia classify as non-citizens. I’d never heard of this term before, but non-citizens are people who are not citizens of Latvia or any other country. People with no passport or nationality. Many of these people are Ethnic Russians who were originally citizens of the USSR but never became Latvian.

While both of these stories may not be the most upbeat, Latvia is flourishing within the EU and has greatly improved its press freedom and human rights. One area where Latvia is doing especially, well and is gender equality. In the Latvian workplace, women hold more than 56% of leadership positions. This ranks first in Europe, and most likely the world. Good job Latvia!

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Day 83 - Italy 🇮🇹

April 15, 2021

Today we visit one of my favourite places in the world: Italy.

Aperitivo

I’ll start with a little aperitivo of facts about Italy.

First off, it was also an Italian that kicked off European exploration of the Americas in 1492. Yes, that’s right, Christopher Columbus was born in Genoa and was Italian, not Spanish.

Secondly, there are only three countries in the world completely surrounded by another country, and two of those are within Italy. These encircled countries are The Vatican City and San Marino. The only other enclaved country of this sort is Lesotho in South Africa.

And for today’s final morsel: Italy is also home to all three of Europe’s active volcanoes. Mount Stromboli, Vesuvius and Mount Etna.

Carolee in Calabria. This place is really special

Il secondo

For today’s secondo I’ll share some lesser-known tips for visiting Italy:

'Nduja (and Calabria)

If you’re visiting Calabria in Southern Italy you need to get into 'Nduja. 'Nduja is a spicy, salty, salami like paste. Try it, eat it, buy some to take home even bathe in it. It’s honestly one of the tastiest foods known to humankind. I also recommend visiting the Callipo tuna factory in Calabria. Not only does this enterprise stand up to and defy the mafia, but they also sell delectable 'Nduja. Oh, and they also have a great gelato and Calabria’s other speciality, Tartufo di Pizzo.

Venice on a budget

Everyone wants to go to Venice. Well, that’s how it seems when you’re actually there. The hotels are cramped and extortionately priced, and despite Italy’s reputation it’s possible to pay a lot of money for really disappointing food.

So to avoid these problems, head out in search of bàcari bars serving cicchetti. Cicchetti is basically Venetian tapas. It’s cheap, tasty, and goes perfectly with a glass of wine. If you eat and drink standing at the bar you even get a discount.

If you want to save even more money, why not do what I did as a student and stay outside of real Venice in “Venice Mestre”. I stayed at a campsite with a pool and disco for the Italian teenagers. I really was living the good life.

Catania

Spending only one night in Catania may gown down as one of my all-time biggest regrets. It’s a gritty, Sicilian city that at first appears to be a bit rough around the edges. This is what makes it special though. It’s real Sicily.

Catania is filled with those wonderful little coffee bars where you can purchase a tiny espresso, or even caffè corretto and get change for a euro. Catania also has an abundance of scruffy bars serving excellent drinks and the kind of restaurants you can only dream of from outside of Italy.

What’s more, the entire city lives in the shadow of Mt Etna, and the views are mesmerising, especially from the top of any tall building. I’ll let the view from Basilica Cattedrale Sante’Agata speak for itself.

Right, time for a digestivo. Tonight I’ll be opting for an Aperol spritz.

Day 81 - Ireland 🇮🇪

April 13, 2021

Today we’re visiting The Republic of Ireland. That is to say, the country which occupies the majority of the island of Ireland. The country most people think of when they think of Ireland.

Ireland is arguably culturally closer to my own (the UK) than any other country. It’s the only other country that knows how to do a pub. Or even what a pub actually is. Not to mention the Irish also serve beer in the correct glass size, and at the correct temperature.

Irish and British humour, (something for which both cultures are known,) are strikingly similar. Irish humour leans heavily on irony, sarcasm, and self-deprecation and a twist of the macabre. If you want to understand what I mean, watch Father Ted, The Guard or almost anything with Dylan Moran.

Our shared histories are so interconnected and intertwined. Not all of this interconnectedness has led to good outcomes. The Irish even drink more tea per-head than the British. (That’s the only interesting fact you’re getting from me today.*)

Even though I’ve so far spent all of this post justifying ways in which I think I known Ireland, I have an awkward confession. I’ve never been to Ireland. Yes, that’s correct, I’ve never visited the only country which shares a land border with my own country.

I have been to the island of Ireland though, on a brief trip to Belfast. Today we celebrate the Republic though, and for all of my claims that I understand Irish culture, beer and comedy, I’ve never actually visited.

I pledge to fix this as soon as travel is permitted, and safe again.

Right, it’s time for a pint of Guinness

* Actually I have come up with another (anecdotal) fact. The only people I have ever known who cook potatoes in multiple ways for the same meal are all Irish.

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An obligatory photo of Icelandic ponies near Höfn

Day 76 - Iceland 🇮🇸

April 8, 2021

Today we visit Iceland, the surprisingly large windswept island in the middle of the North Atlantic. Today is also a great opportunity to get a little closer to that mythical post I was always planning to write about my 2018 trip to Iceland.

So here goes my attempt to write up some tips for visiting Iceland in under an hour…

Practical advice for visiting Iceland

The weather in Iceland

Whatever time of year you’re visiting Iceland. Prepare for it to be grey, soaking wet and windy. This is part of the charm. If it’s sunny (or not raining) then this is a bonus.

Where to stay

Some countries mostly have hotels, some countries, B&Bs, some countries rental apartments. Iceland favours the guesthouse. Expect them to be expensive, and not so luxurious, but everything you need for a nights rest.

What car to rent in Iceland?

You’ll need a car because of course, you are going to explore Iceland beyond Reykavik. Everyone recommends you need some kind of rugged SUV to drive around Iceland. This is simply not true though, well, unless you’re planning to traverse the unpaved interior roads. I rented the smallest, cheapest car possible (Iceland is expensive!) The car came with studded winter tyres and it was completely fine (if a little underpowered).

What to see and do in Iceland

Here are a few of the places I visited in Iceland. Some are well-known Iceland landmarks, others less so.

Secret Lagoon Hot Spring

If you fancy relaxing in a thermal lagoon, I recommend the Secret lagoon Hot Spring, (or Gamla Laugin in Icelandic). This place is amazing - it’s far less well known than the Blue Lagoon, but is a lot smaller and quieter. It’s also Iceland’s oldest geothermal swimming pool, dating back to 1891. If relaxing in the soothing warm waters makes you hungry, the Secret lagoon very close to Iceland’s only mushroom farm which has an excellent mushroom cafe. It’s amazing how many ways you can cook mushrooms.

Strokkur

A trip to Iceland wouldn’t be complete without visiting a few geysers. The geyser most people (and tour buses) gravitate towards is Strokkur. If you go with the expectation that it will be touristy, it’s incredible and definitely worthy of a detour. I’d actually go as far as saying the crowds of people actually add to the theatre of seeing the ground explode with towers of steaming water.

Solheimasandur plane wreck

If you’re up for a long walk through a desolate landscape, then walking to the Solheimasandur plane wreck is pretty amazing. The Solheimasandur plane wreck is a decaying US Navy DC3 that crash-landed in 1973, and since then has sat in its current desolate surroundings. I visited during a torrential downpour, but the walk and wreck site was still beautiful. I probably sound a little cranky, but it is possibly a bit too much of an Instagram location for my taste. I just wanted to chill and take in the desolate, weird place. Go early before the crowds and hope for a rainy day.

Skaftafell and the Vatnajökull National Park

I definitely recommend taking a whole day at least at the Vatnajökull National Park. There are many of incredible hikes around Skaftafell and the Vatnajökull National Park and the trails are all well maintained. The views of the plains and glaciers are spectacular. I recommend taking water, some snacks or a packed lunch.

Svínafellsjökull Glacier

Svínafellsjökull is one of the glaciers I most enjoyed visiting. It’s possible to walk right up to the foot of the glacier (provided you’re extremely careful). It’s easy to get to and won’t disappoint if you enjoy dramatic scenery. When I went Svínafellsjökull was also very deserted.

The most dramatic glacier I visited in Iceland though must be the Sólheimajökull Glacier just outside of Vik.

Hoffell Hot tubs

If you make it as far as Höfn, I really enjoyed relaxing at the Hoffell Hot Tubs. They’re inexpensive, the setting is spectacular and they’re a really lovely place to unwind after a day of hiking. Oh, and the area around Höfn is lovely too - it’s much quieter than other parts of Iceland and has lots of hiking options.

The glacial plains just outside of Skaftafell

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A bloke on a horse, Buda Castle, Budapest, Hungary

Day 75 - Hungary 🇭🇺

April 7, 2021

Hungary is known, most importantly, for the Rubik’s cube, but also its delicious paprika and more recently its surge towards rightwing populism led by Victor Orbán.

One of the other things Hungary is most known for is its thermal baths. Hungary really is the land of thermal spas with over 1300 and over 123 in Budapest alone.

I’ve been lucky enough to visit multiple thermal baths on the two occasions I’ve been to Budapest.

The first was back in 2008 as part of my European Interrailing adventure. Budapest was one of the places I most wanted to visit as back then it still had this ex-Soviet Eastern European allure. Or at least to my 21-year-old self it did.

Enjoying €1 beers that we could barely afford

My first visit to Budapest was marked with a day visit to Sziget Festival after an almost complete night’s lack of sleep owing to a sleeper train from Prague where my friend had her flip-phone stolen. Miraculously they opted to leave her euros and passport, but just swipe the budget mobile.

Sziget was immense, sweaty and in all honesty mind-blowing. We spent all day in the mosh and saw The Killers, Pete Doherty and the Hungarian band Tankcsapda.

My more recent visit to Budapest was back in 2017. In fact, it was our last weekend break before moving to Denmark. I remember walking along the street with my hands half-freezing looking at jobs in Copenhagen on my phone.

We did manage to squeeze in a few visits to some of Budapest’s impressive thermal baths though. Gellert would be my pick.

Potato rosti from a street vendor in Budapest

We also checked out some of Budapest’s ruin bars such as Fogasház and Szimpla Kert. Unlike our first visit though, we could afford to eat in restaurants. My personal favourite was Belvárosi Disznótoros which serves excellent (and inexpensive) Hungarian barbecue. I would definitely return.

On that note, I could really go for a cold Kozel.

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